Hokkien Mee: The Noodle Symphony of Singapore

 

Hokkien Mee

Evolution of Hokkien Mee

Hokkien Mee is usually considered one of Singapore's most iconic noodle meals. This renowned meal is rich, flavourful, and bursting with wok-fired aroma, and it perfectly reflects the country's dynamic food culture.

The origins of Hokkien Mee can be traced back to the 1940s, when two brothers, Ng Seng and Ng Tong, arrived in Singapore from Xiamen. They got work as coolies at the wholesale warehouse on Rochor Road. After a long day at work, they would assemble for supper and cook some noodles and other things on a charcoal stove put on the ground. It soon became known as toh kah mee and kay luo mee. Initially, no standard ingredient was utilised for the noodles. Sometimes it's squid, sometimes prawns. As it gained popularity, it was referred to by different names, such as Sotong Mee (squid noodles), Hei Mee (prawn noodles), and Hokkien Cha.

The two brothers recognised great potential in the industry and decided to open their own food stalls. The oldest brother, Ng Seng, stayed at Rochor Road in front of the once-famous "New Seven Storey Hotel". He became well-known, and his meal was dubbed Rochor mee, a moniker that many older Singaporeans still use today. His fourth son, Ng Hock Chuan, opened the well-known Ah Hock Hokkien mee at Chomp Chomp.

Ng Tong, the younger brother, opened another kiosk in front of Tong Ji Medical Hall, close to Eu Tong Seng Road. Mr Ng chose to set up his street stand in front of a tea establishment on Florence Road. When the government began licensing street hawkers in 1978, he moved to a permanent stall at the Simon Road wet market and remained there until the 1990s, when he relocated to his current location in Old Airport Road. He has been frying Hokkien Mee for 53 years and, at 71, continues to work six days a week for 12 hours each. He truly personifies the traditional values of a street hawker.

This form of Hokkien mee is created using thin beehoon (the same beehoon that has been used since the beginning!) and fried till dry and fragrant. It is traditionally served with sliced chillies, and Mr Ng has declined requests for sambal because it would alter the natural essence of the noodles.  



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